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Watch Parts and Chronometer Components

Micro-precision laser manufacturing for the watchmaking and luxury goods industries

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In watchmaking, every micrometer counts when it comes to the perfection of the movement. KMLT® manufactures high-precision mechanical watch parts and optical components, both as individual parts (prototyping) and in series production. By combining state-of-the-art laser technologies, we guarantee maximum dimensional accuracy and minimal burr formation.

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Our Technological Highlights for Your Watch Components

To manufacture delicate watch components, we use two high-end processes that complement each other perfectly:

  • USP femtosecond laser processing: Cold ablation without thermal stress. Ideal for burr-free cuts, precise micro-drilling, and the finest 3D surface structures on dials or movement plates.
  • Laser micro-cutting: Extremely precise cutting of materials with thicknesses ranging from 0.005 mm to 1.0 mm. We achieve extremely tight manufacturing tolerances of up to ±3 µm, which are verified by test reports.

In addition, we offer precise micro-bending for the final processing of spring elements, as well as high-quality surface finishing processes (such as micro-polishing and electro-polishing), all from a single source.

Materials Expertise for the Watch Industry and Micromechanics

We process a wide range of traditional and modern materials used in watchmaking. Because we care deeply about the health of our employees and environmental protection, we consistently rely on modern, sustainable, and beryllium-free high-performance materials. Depending on the material thickness and requirements, we cut and texture these materials using ultrashort-pulse laser radiation (USP laser) or high-precision fiber lasers with micrometer-level accuracy—and, depending on the process, completely free of thermal microstructural changes, burr formation, or warping.

An overview of the materials we process:

Standard metals and base alloys used in watchmaking, such as 

  • watch brass and eco-brass (e.g., CuZn39Pb3 / CW614N): The proven standard material for movement plates, bridges, and gears. The lead-free Eco-Brass variants we use can be processed into micromechanical gear trains using UKP laser technology — a chip-free process that produces extremely delicate results without any molten edges.
  • Nickel silver (copper-nickel-zinc alloy): The signature material of high-end watchmaking for uncoated movement bridges and plates. It is characterized by high hardness and an elegant, slightly patinated appearance. Perfect for thermally neutral laser processing, as no surface coatings are damaged.
  • Carbon and free-cutting steels (e.g., 1.0718 / 1.4034): The reliable foundation for gears, shafts, screws, and functional parts in the movement, which are hardened and high-gloss polished (“black polished”) after laser cutting.
  • Durnico®/ Durimphy: A precipitation-hardening maraging steel with extremely high strength (up to 2,000 N/mm²) and dimensional stability for delicate spring elements.
  • Stainless steel for cases (e.g., AISI 316L / 1.4435): The global industry standard for watch cases, case backs, bezels, and bracelets. It offers excellent corrosion resistance, is hypoallergenic, and can be finely structured or deeply engraved using a laser.

Precious Metals

  • Gold (yellow, white, and rose gold), silver, and platinum: exclusive precious metals used in the manufacture of hands, dial appliqués, rotors, and the highest-quality movement components in haute horlogerie.

High-end copper alloys (as a certified CuBe substitute)

  • Copper-nickel-tin (e.g., Niclafor®): An ideal, non-toxic alternative to copper-beryllium (CuBe). These spinodally hardened alloys offer comparably high strength (up to over 1,000 MPa) as well as non-magnetism and can be reliably processed using a laser.
  • Phosphor bronze (e.g., CuSn6 / CuSn8): The proven, classic metal for durable flat springs, contact springs, and mechanical clamping elements.

Special Steels and Spring Materials for Watches

  • Nivaflex (special cobalt-nickel-chromium alloy): This non-magnetic material is considered the gold standard for high-stress spring components and tension springs in the watchmaking industry. Using our USP laser cutting process, we process Nivaflex without any warping whatsoever and fully preserve the alloy’s elastic properties.
  • Stainless spring steel (e.g., 1.4310): An optimal base material for structural spring components, complex bent parts, and precision shims.

Lightweight Metals

  • Titanium (e.g., Grade 5 / 3.7165): A high-strength lightweight metal used for extremely lightweight, skeletonized movement components, sporty watch cases, or movement parts in tourbillon mechanisms.

Important Note on Occupational Safety and Environmental Protection:
To ensure consistent environmental and occupational safety, we do not process copper-beryllium (CuBe) with a laser. Since the thermal or cutting processing of CuBe can release dust and aerosols that are hazardous to health and carcinogenic, we completely avoid using this material to protect our team.
Modern high-performance materials such as Niclafor® or Nivaflex offer technically equivalent or even superior non-magnetic alternatives. We are happy to source these materials according to your specifications and process them reliably on our laser systems.

Range of Laser-Fabricated Watch Parts

Using laser micro-cutting and USP laser processing, we manufacture a wide variety of sophisticated components:

  • Movement Components (Mechanical)

    • Gears and gear trains: Delicate gear teeth with perfect flank quality.
    • Spring elements: Flat springs, snap springs, and sensitive return springs made of Nivaflex or CuNiSn.
    • Anchors and anchor wheels: Watch escapement components with minimal tolerances for maximum timekeeping accuracy.
    • Plates and bridges: Micro-engraved and textured support plates for the movement.
    • Rotor components: Precision weight segments for automatic movements.

  • Display and Design Elements (Exterior)

    • Hands: Extremely lightweight, delicate hour, minute, and second hands (as blanks, with laser-cut pockets, or skeletonized).
    • Skeletonization: High-precision laser-cut openings in dials and movement components.
    • Dials: Cutouts for date windows and ultra-fine surface texturing using USP lasers.
    • Appliques and Indexes: Numerals and hour markers for mounting on the dial.

  • Housing and Functional Parts

    • Spacer rings and shims: Ultra-thin spacers for precise adjustment of the movement within the case.
    • Sealing and fastening elements: Micro-components for case construction.

  • Processing and Traceability

    • Laser marking / laser engraving: Permanent application of logos, caliber numbers, and decorative patterns (Geneva stripes, pearl finishes) with extremely fine line widths starting at approximately 15 µm.
    • Counterfeit protection and traceability: Incorporation of tamper-proof features for the unambiguous identification of original components.

Custom Material and Feasibility Assessment:
Do you have questions about the manufacturing options for your watch components, or would you like a quote for a prototype made from one of our CuBe substitute materials?
To meet the high standards of the watch and chronometer industry, we work with certified suppliers. If your desired material is not part of our standard portfolio, we conduct a customized feasibility assessment for each inquiry regarding material procurement. While we cannot guarantee the availability of special materials in advance, we will flexibly explore every procurement option on your behalf.

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FAQ: Watch Parts and Chronometer Components at KMLT®

What types of watch parts and chronometer components does KMLT® manufacture?

KMLT® manufactures high-precision, intricate micro-parts and spring elements specifically for the watch and luxury goods industries. These include mechanical watch components, intricate spring elements, dials, movement parts, and all types of precision laser-cut parts. We also cut luminescent films for luminous elements on dials and hands.

What manufacturing processes are used in production?

• USP femtosecond laser processing: For absolutely burr-free cuts and the creation of 3-dimensional surfaces without thermal effects on the material—perfect for sensitive functional components.
• Laser microcutting (including UV lasers): Enables the processing of the finest structures with minimal tolerances and the narrowest cut widths—for both metals and specialty materials such as luminous films.
• Laser marking: Precise and permanent application of caliber designations, logos, or serial numbers at the micro level.

What advantages does USP laser processing offer specifically for dials and display elements?

USP femtosecond laser processing enables completely “cold” material ablation without thermal stress. This allows for the extremely delicate processing of watch dials made from sensitive materials. The process is perfectly suited for:
• Precise cutouts: Absolutely distortion-free cuts for date windows or complex openwork designs.
• Ultra-fine surface textures: Applying decorative patterns directly to the dial without deforming the material or leaving melted edges.
• Appliques and hour markers: Burr-free production of wafer-thin numerals and hour markers that can then be precisely mounted.

What level of precision and what tolerances can be guaranteed?

By using specialized laser systems, KMLT® achieves tolerances of up to ±3 µm in laser micro-cutting. The machining process is precisely optimized for the ultra-thin material thicknesses—in the micrometer and tenth-of-a-millimeter range—that are standard in the watchmaking industry.

Does KMLT® also offer surface finishing for watch components?

Yes. Since flawless surfaces and precise edges are crucial in the watch industry, KMLT® offers a comprehensive range of finishing services:
• Micropolishing for high-gloss, residue-free surfaces and a flawless appearance.
• Electropolishing is used as a specialized process primarily for parts cut from a die.

Can you also manufacture prototypes, or only high-volume production runs?

KMLT® flexibly covers the entire supply chain. The company produces both individual parts (prototype development) for the research and development of new calibers and medium- and large-scale production runs for industrial manufacturing.

How is strict quality control ensured for such small components?

Quality control is carried out using a fully traceable system in accordance with ISO 9001:2015. In addition to high-precision gantry-type measuring machines and measuring projectors, KMLT® has a state-of-the-art 3D laser scanning microscope with a resolution of up to 0.01 nm.